The right cat carry cage can help avert catastrophe
TAKING your cat to the vet can be a stressful experience, not just for the cat but for you and the vet too!
There are strategies to minimise the drama, not least of which is the design of the carry cage.
After many years of trying to coax and wheedle terrified moggies out of cages for examination, I have developed a strong preference for a certain type of cage and a dislike of the most commonly owned design.
With much time investment and dogged (or catted) perseverance, cats can be trained to go into a cage at home.
There are videos on YouTube which show you how to do this. It may not be that practical however if you have any sort of day job.
The main problem I see is trying to extract them at the vet clinic.
Most cats are reluctant to leave the relative safety of their plastic burrow and some are terrified into an adrenaline fuelled fight/flight or freeze mode.
The last thing they want to see is two huge humanoid fingery appendages approaching them menacingly.
The last thing I want is for my hands to come out of the cage looking like chopped liver.
So here's why one style of cage is better.
Cages with a full size wire lid top and a sturdy polyethylene plastic tub bottom are not only the easiest to get the patient in and out of; they are the best value because they last for decades.
Soft nylon boxes with full opening zipped side panels of mesh are also fine.
Unfortunately most people buy the type of cages which are a full hard plastic box shape with a front opening wire door.
They look impressive and even sturdy but in my experience they are awful to get the poor cat in and out of, and they are prone to breakage.
The plastic or cheaper model deteriorates and cracks, clips get lost and they rarely last more than a few years, making them false economy.
So if you're thinking of buying a new cat cage, consider avoiding the front opening type for your cat's sake, and the sake of your vet!
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